In today’s character vernacular, difference like heritage, heirloom, tradition and story are frequency considered. After all, conform is about consistently meditative forward—never backward—only referring to seasons and collections past as a approach of acknowledging a stream it-item or trend’s place in a industry’s ever-changing dialogue.
This is where Couture, a intersection of a aged ensure and fashion’s future, finds itself during a crossroads. With ready-to-wear brands solemnly anticipating their place on a Couture conform calendar (we see we Rodarte and Proenza Schouler), and in a time where loyal craftsmanship is few and distant between, we are consistently during a detriment for what to worship in fashion’s ever-changing, over-saturated landscape. Haute Couture, during a purest, bridges a gap; here, uninformed ideas and modernity, translated by normal handwork and age-old techniques–rise to a surface.
Historic hotels find themselves during a identical junction. Their strong-hold on tradition, joining to attire and chosen use seems out of place in a universe packaged with a up-and-coming. Hotels with history, resplendence and business seem to onslaught to find their place in a laid-back oppulance globe while also handling to find a approach to sojourn relevant.
Enter a Hotel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel, which, after a four-year, multi-hundred-million dollar renovation, is looking improved than ever with suites re-designed Haute Couturier Karl Lagerfeld. Attempting to offer guest an informal-meets-formal hotel experience, where preference and elegance—rather than over-the-top grandeur—win a day, a hotel, that re-opened on a heels of Fall 2017 Haute Couture this past July, is an engaging foil for a state of stream couture—and an suitable plcae in that to prominence a season’s best looks.
The Hotel de Crillon, it seems, is Paris’s new Garden of Eden, and BAZAAR.com was in Paris for a re-opening to name a Couture collections’s best looks and position them in a hotel’s many disdainful enclaves. The Eve to a Eden? Georgia Fowler, whose high-fashion meets Victoria’s Secret resume personifies that matrimony of impulse and accessibility that a stream state of Couture—and a newly regenerated Crillon—seem to constraint so seamlessly.
Mystery was a thesis of Giorgio Armani’s Privé show, where overlays of festooned tulles alluded to things that distortion underneath a surface. Seductive silhouettes, hosiery-esque boots and netted cloche hats gathering home a concept, showcased here during a opening to a Crillon’s Salon des Aigles.
Armani Privé Fall 2017 Haute Couture Look 20, cost on request, armani.com.
Elsa Schiaparelli’s moving womanlike friends were on a mind of Creative Director Bertrand Guyon this season, and any demeanour of his 36-part collection referenced new shapes (rather than archival ones) that could fit them in present-day. This heart-shaped bodice, hand-draped citrine blanket accented during a waist with a dragonfly clear badge and finished with crystal-tipped tulle dusk gloves feels right during home in a salon of Karl Lagerfeld’s meticulously designed grand appartement.
If Marie Antoinette were alive today, indulging in confections of both a honeyed and character variety, eveningwear backer Giambattista Valli would certainly be on her brief list. His Alice in Wonderland-style (playing with distance and scale) done approaching appearances in his latest Couture showing, and it seemed usually wise to fire his frill-skirted micro mini with an irritable beaded strap in a same salon Marie Antoinette schooled to play piano.
Elie Saab’s display was filled with ethereal laces, plush velvets and abounding hues—inspired by “fallen kings…and soldier queens”—apropos for a Marie Antoinette suite, as a infamously ungodly black met her rain outward a suite’s windows on a Place de la Concorde.
Alexis Mabille illusory how fragrances would demeanour for his latest collection, imbuing his looks with soft, wipsy doses of tone and texture. The Bernstein suite, named for famed composer Leonard Bernstein, is also a feast for a senses: abounding blues and plush fabrics everywhere inside, while a wrap-around patio offers monumental views of Paris.
Donatella Versace is a black of maximalism; and while her Couture charity this deteriorate was not her many decadent, it seemed wise to select a many gilded apartment during a Crillon (the Salon des Aigles) to fire a favorite demeanour from her latest range. A pleated, studded swath of a many ideally patina-ed glow tulle, accented with bullion chains, seems fit for a round hold in this room, or a wander down a red carpet.
Karl Lagerfeld’s latest collection for Chanel focused on a “vision of a regenerated Parisian woman.” How apt, deliberation his purpose in restoring a many intemperate suites, Les Grands Appartements, for a Crillon, a regenerated Parisienne in a possess way.
Pierpaolo Piccoli was on to us this season. As we sought to pull a through-line between a forward-thinking nonetheless heirloom aspects of a iconic Crillon with Haute Couture, he set out to contrariety a dedicated rituals of a church (the Valentino offices demeanour onto a masquerade of a Vatican) and a traditions of Couture craftsmanship. The result? Embroideries, appliqué work and uninformed takes on uniforms that bordered on eremite practice to behold.
New ensure couturier Alexandre Vauthier directed for a throwback, profitable loyalty to Couture’s heyday of a 1980s as his starting point. If hearkening behind to what was once deliberate fashion’s weakest hour produces suiting this strong, we are all for designers embracing a need to go behind to a future.
Alexander Vauthier Fall 2017 Haute Couture Look 21, cost on request, alexandrevauthier.com; Giuseppe Zanotti shoes, $795, giuseppezanottidesign.com; Cartier earrings, cost on request, cartier.com; David Yurman ring, cost on request, davidyurman.com; De Beers ring, cost on request, debeers.com.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second Couture display for Christian Dior offering some-more suiting, daywear and outerwear than any before, though monumental ballgowns—this time with an altogether clarity of ease—were also on a calendar in droves. Case in point: an A-line comprised of rows of pleated frills in degradé shades of indigo, steel and pacifist that grazed a ankles, rather than a floor, with a scalloped hem. Trés Chic.
Created by Carrie Goldberg; Photography Videography by Christophe Roué; Shot during Hotel de Crillon, a Rosewood Hotel; Starring Georgia Fowler; Makeup by Moani Lee for Beauty Exchange NYC; Hair by Hélène Bidard; Styling and Market Assistant Tennille Yamashita; Casting and Bookings by Muzam Productions; Special Thanks to Jenna Rosenstein, Liz Sloane Watts and Callie Stanton.