Every deteriorate given initial his eponymous tag in 2005, Telfar Clemens has demonstrated loyal originality. From ushering in gender-fluid streetwear to regulating increase from a plug collection with White Castle to bail out minors on Rikers Island, Clemens seems to work on a aloft conform magnitude than roughly anyone. But during his genre-bending Fashion Week display in New York final night (his initial given winning tip honors during a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund), and a swarmed after-party circuit that followed, a flashy engineer valid that, in serve to $400,000 in esteem money, there are copiousness of tricks still adult his sleeve.
Kicking off an dusk that wove between music, fashion, and commerce, Clemens achieved a singular Fashion Week first: singing live a soundtrack to his possess presentation, aptly dubbed “Music.” At a entertain to 10:00 p.m. during Spring Studios, thespian Dev Hynes of Blood Orange ascended a lifted executive height to take his place during a keyboard, where he was shortly accompanied by RB thespian Ian Isiah. The span afterwards began a delivery of a gospel lane “Grateful” by Hezekiah Walker, summoning a light march of singers and models, any rising in head-to-toe Fall 2018 Telfar. Finally, Clemens himself emerged to join a 11-part ensemble—including Kelela, Alton Mason, Oyinda, Walter Pearce, and more—to belt out a song’s climax.
While a collection emphasized abounding textures like silk and leather, reportedly “an towering version of a brand’s message,” a after-party during bill church Century 21 reflected a label’s underlying joining to accessibility. “Century 21 is my stop-and-shop,” Clemens pronounced of a choice in venue. “[It] has a large credentials for me in terms of how we knowledge clothes. Comme des Garçons, Vivienne Westwood, Helmut Lang—I would get all of that [here] and afterwards also get Hanes. So we suspicion it would be unequivocally cold to have my after-party here.”
The eventuality remarkable a second stop on Telfar’s “world tour,” that began in Jan with an art-meets-fashion muster during Milan’s Spazio Maiocchi. “The vaunt in Milan was kind of a initial act,” pronounced Clemens. “That’s where we expelled a initial dual [Fall 2018] looks.” Following Fashion Week, a debate will reveal with some-more performances by a revolution of squads. “It’s going to be opposite acts during any show. You’ll have to wait and see.”
It’s this interdisciplinary character that sets Telfar apart, according humanities influencer JiaJia Fei. “It was a many astonishing conform uncover I’d ever seen,” pronounced Fei, who wore Self-Portrait. “It was a sum work of art: music, fashion, and art. There was a lot of intersectionality, not only in temperament though also in creativity.”
Isiah, who led a peace progressing in a night, echoed this theory, going a step serve to call out a miss of intersectionality in a larger conform landscape. “Fashion sucks right now,” he said. “It sucks since there’s no enlightenment behind it. We wish to put genuine enlightenment behind conform again.”
As a line of Telfar acolytes queued adult around a block, those inside a bonus dialect store fueled adult on Whispering Angel rosé and—naturally—White Castle sliders and fries. But as indication Shaun Ross noted, a brand’s gusto for quick food stands in sheer contrariety to a rejecting of cookie-cutter fashion. “We’re in a time in multitude when conform is really microwave. It’s force-fed,” he said. “[Telfar’s] been in a diversion for a prolonged time, and it’s about time he get recognition. When he won a CFDA award, we thought, It’s about time.”
Telfar Takes Us Behind-the-Scenes of His Musical Fashion Show: