Haute Couture and expertise (II): The pleats of Atelier Lognon

Since 1945, a conform residence Atelier Lognon has creased
fabrics regulating a same skills and techniques. It is this know-how, which
has been total a art skills of a residence of Chanel given 2013, that
numerous brands are still looking for.

In a hands of a craftsmen of Atelier Lognon, prosaic fabrics can take
on plural opposite forms. It is a ability that Gérard Georges Lognon, the
great-grandson of Emilie who founded a House in 1853, describes as “an
enabler of fabrics”. Whilst 4 generations have succeeded as a conduct of
the studio, no one has taken over from Gérard Georges who late though a
successor. However, along came Chanel and a auxiliary Paraffection which
is dedicated to building a skills of a profession, who took over the
company in 2013 in sequence to safeguard a continued existence of a know-how
whilst bringing it into a 21st century. Since then, it has left a chic
districts of Paris and assimilated La Manufacture des Allumettes in
Aubervilliers (93) subsequent to a boot-maker Massaro and a milliner Michel
(both acquired by Chanel).

More than 3,000 opposite pleats

Coated, prosaic or box pleats, dull pleats, stretchable pleats for draping
effects, accordion pleats, Watteau pleats describing a duration of box
pleats flared during a bottom, sunburst pleats during really tighten intervals that
expand, Fortuny pleats desirous by Greek woollen tunics, not forgetting
cutaway, flower, peacock, pyramid, badge and origami pleats, a technique
used to emanate pleats always uses a singular Kraft house cover or pattern
(about 3,000 in stock) a oldest of that date behind to 1900. The
production processes have not altered given a start of a 20th century.
Firstly, a fabric is ironed and done prosaic (silk, crepe, tulle, muslin,
organza, velvet, as good as other materials such as leather or polyester),
then it is placed together to and subsequent to a card mould, rolled adult in
it afterwards put into an oven during between 85°C and 100°C for a duration of between
1 hour and 1 hour 30 mins depending on a fabric. It is afterwards left for a
day to concede a whole cover to cold down so that a fabric can
definitively take a form of a pleat, before it is taken out of the
mould. And it works like magic!

A singular heritage

Whilst Lognon has been a partner to a conform industry, with
connections to Gabrielle Chanel, Christian Dior, Nina Ricci, or even Hubert
de Givenchy given a beginning, a latter are operative with a haute
couture and ready-to-wear pattern studios today. Alongside a traditional
clients, a Atelier also works with some-more contemporary names such as
Vanessa Bruno, Claudine Ivari or Christine Phung, though a numerous
followers also embody l’Opéra de Paris. Lastly, Lognon works with many
designer studios from oppulance conform houses. Whatever a direct – several
hundred lambskin bags, potion watch cases or a Couture dress – a pleat
craftsmen are always prepared to take on new challenges. “It is a special
place with innovative and disdainful pleats that other houses do not
possess,” explains a engineer Christine Phung who has had countless items
produced by a Atelier. “It is positively some-more costly than others, but
it is a payoff to have one’s collection constructed by palm with this type
of know-how”.

Georges Lognon confides that he schooled on a job. Knowledge is passed
on by use and any era contributes a possess set of
innovations. “It is a course over time,” a craftsman pronounced before he
retired. “The plat existed a prolonged time before us, with a Greeks and the
Romans.” And a story never gets aged or goes out of!

Photos: Collection Christine Phung, ©Atelier Lognon

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