Gardeners know that pruning encourages growth. In this context, a “replanting” of several New York brands to a Paris report isn’t an exodus, though an opportunity—and not only for rising talent, as Eugenia Kim valid this dusk when she done her New York Fashion Week entrance forward of her brand’s 20th anniversary.
A bit of backstory: The Ivy-educated Kim was once on a pre-med lane during Dartmouth, though switched gears and worked for a time as an editor during Allure while concurrently holding millinery classes during Parsons. Hatmaking, she explains, was easier to master than a sewing machine. In 1998, her calling became her contention by dint of a bad (self-administered) haircut. The formula were so catastrophic that Kim shaved her conduct and designed a shawl to cover her pate. When buyers—intrigued by this hair-like hat—wanted to see a collection, Kim done one. In 2004, a accessories maven combined boots to her repertoire, picking adult a CFDA endowment for them, and she recently started display bags. They were a tipping indicate for Kim. “We started removing a lot of courtesy for a bags,” says a designer, who motionless it was time “to emanate a full look: hats, shoes, and bags.” Plus, she adds, “I only wanted to uncover what we can do outward [of] what is commercial.”
To emanate a required drama, looks were shown on models—all of whom wore vixenish high-cut black maillots with their accessories—while guest swarmed around them as ’80s synth-pop blared from a speakers. (This author alternated notetaking with Shazamming.) The Greed Decade is one that designers have been increasingly drawn to, and Kim narrowed in on Patrick Nagel as her inspiration, observant her father had a Nagel print in his office. This American artist— a visit writer to Playboy, who famously combined a cover art for Duran Duran’s Rio—is famous for sketch women with a New-Wave-meets-Art-Deco flair. Kim, who was feeling “a really 80s moment,” though was sleepy of a decade’s signature brights, honed in on Nagel’s affinity for pastels and geometries. Playing on a cool, look-but-don’t-touch allure of a Nagel woman, Kim patrician her collection (with a healthy sip of 80’s irony) “In Your Dreams.”
The makeup and several bags done approach reference to a illustrator. The rest of a accessories, like giant-bow-trimmed bags, color-blocked flatforms, and satin mules spoke some-more generally to a decade in that bigger was better. Even some-more accepted were a festooned sneakers. Some of a feathered shoes was certainly only for show. And because not? Kim has warranted her place in a sun.